Polpo Venetian Banquet at Wilderness
Festival
In a summer awash (often literally) with festivals up and
down the country, Wilderness stands out for its combination of jaw dropping
setting and the way it joyously celebrates all of our senses. Gorgeous,
eye-popping acts, great music and some of the best food in the country all come
together for a glorious weekend in the Cotswolds.
Where: Cornbury
Park, Charlbury, Oxfordshire
When: 8th
to 11th of August. Polpo banquet Lunch and Dinner on Saturday the 10th
During the day you can swim in the lakes, sip champagne in the
lakeside spa, go horse riding or even attend a talk on astrophysics or visit
the Museum of Charles Dickens.
And, after all that exertion of body and mind, sit back and
luxuriate in a Venetian banquet by Russell Norman and his talented gang at
Polpo. A now legendary Soho restaurant serving authentic dishes from the Veneto
in a laid back environment with killer cocktails, Polpo brought a new edgy,
urban take on Italian food with its gritty styling and casual cichetti menu when it opened in London a
few years ago. At Wilderness, Norman and his executive chef, Tom Oldroyd, will
be bringing their popular cuisine to a decadent Venetian setting for both lunch
and dinner. Complete with wine and Venetian masks for the highlight of the
festival – the Midnight Masked Ball.
What we ate:
I enjoyed a taster of Polpo’s Venetian banquet recently and
so, if you want the experience to be a culinary surprise, look away now. Over a
lazy afternoon punctuated with Aperol Spritz we were treated to a feast of
Venetian cooking.
We started with a brace of Crostini - Creamed Salt Cod
and Rocket and Walnut Pesto. Both
were creamy and bursting with flavour. Grissini
wrapped with Fennel Salami and
grilled Radicchio were the best way
to eat dried bread sticks that anyone has ever come up with.
The Arancini that
followed were golf-sized and perfectly crispy with just the right amount of
gooey, melted mozzarella binding the risotto. The Fennel and Endive Salad was crunchy and packed a citrus punch – a real
palate stunner.
I loved the Mackerel Tartare,
lively and bright mackerel combined with a zesty dressing and served with paper
thin Carta di Musica with which to
scoop it up.
And then came the Venetian speciality – Risi e Bisi, served up by Russell Norman himself.
Risi e Bisi is a
traditional feast served when the first of the fresh peas are out and Polpo
will be making good use of fresh, local peas at the Wilderness banquet. Not to
be confused with its cousin risotto, this rice dish is creamy and more soupy,
flavoured with a good stock, parmesan and the peas.
The Lamb & Salsa
Verde that followed was perfectly cooked with a tinglingly fresh and herby
sauce.
Dishes were well balanced, with light and healthy mackerel
cancelling out the carb-heavy rice – well, in my book, anyway. We finished with
the lightest, airiest Tiramisu which did, indeed, pick us up.
The Polpo banquet is
a very good reason to attend the Wilderness Festival but tickets are almost
sold out, so hurry.
However, since Wilderness is all about pleasing and indulging
the senses you can expect excellent cuisine from top chefs and brilliant new
cooks as well as great drinks at every turn. And, of course, all the excitement
of midnight circus acts, great bands, ballet, Shakespeare and even talks by
Bonnie Greer and Damian Barr. I think it’s the best festival in the country,
but I won’t be shouting too loud about it.
Details: http://polpo.co.uk/
Simeen Kadi was a guest of Polpo restaurant, 41 Beak Street,
London.
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