Why you should visit South Tyrol

I have just spent 4 glorious days in South Tyrol and didn't come across a single Brit. There were tourists, of course, but of other varieties - mainly from neighbouring Austria, Switzerland and Germany. Even Americans. So, are we Brits missing out? I think so.

South Tyrol, or Alto Adige, to give it its Italian name, is Italy's northern-most province and, from what I remember of my GSCE History, one that was handed over to Italy after the First World War, confiscated off Austria for bad behaviour. Today it is a pleasing, if a little disorientating, blend of the two cultures and languages, with German the predominant language and a more Latin sensitivity enlivening the scene.

Bolzano is the northern most city in Italy and capital of the South Tyrol region. Nestled in a valley ringed by the Dolomites, it is both the hottest and the coldest city in Italy. 

A few days in this beautiful area is as good an antidote to brain-frying, eye-straining, teeth-clenching urban living as you will get. Especially, if you can't cut the strings of city life completely and need to be within pouring distance of a Negroni at all times. 

Bolzano is a bustling, cultured town nestled in a valley and crowned by rolling hills of vines and apple orchards. There are great restaurants, mediaeval, cobbled streets and several museums to explore in the town centre itself.

There are said to be over 800 castles in the South Tyrol region (not that I was counting) and a few of them are right in town - like this one, which is a ten minute walk from Bolzano's main square and is surrounded by vineyards.

Waltherplatz, the central square is ringed by restaurants and outdoor terraces which are perfect for an afternoon Aperol Spritz and some people-watching. South Tyrol is the Italian province with the most Michelin stars - a total of 17. Not bad for a region with a population of just over half a million - although that does swell at the weekends when the Milanese drive up and the Swiss and Germans drive down for languid lakeside lunches and scenic bike rides through the vineyards.

You could spend your days ambling gently through cobbled streets, soaking up the sun by the beautiful Caldaro lake or even taking the steep, 20 minute cable car ride up to Ritten  (Renon in Italian) a nearby hill station, made famous and fashionable by Austria's Empress Sissi in the mid 19th century. Here, fabulous summer homes cling to the emerald hills clad in wines and apple trees. The Park Hotel Holzner has views of splendour and food to match in a rambling classic Alpine country house.

The dumplings and ravioli stuffed with in-season White Asparagus and prawns are light and delicate.

I also enjoyed roast chicken with summer truffles and lavender.

And the most beautiful construction involving rhubarb and chocolate I have ever seen. Tasted amazing, too.

Back down in the valley in Bolzano, the Park Hotel Laurin has all the charm of a fin-de-siecle grand dame that has seen plenty of opulence, extravagance and even scandal but won't be telling. The gardens are lush and hold plenty of hideaways furnished with lounges and hammocks to bliss out for an hour or two.

In the evening the buzzy poolside bar gets lively, as does the beautiful, high-ceilinged main bar, lined with frescoes and manned by beautiful staff.

The restaurant is all about fine dining, whether it is lunch on the terrace or a long dinner in the elegant dining room. I had the silky, creamy inside of mozzarella - here even chewing on the skin is too much like hard work.

Beef Tartare comes topped with summer truffles and with a hillock of smoked butter to smother over the warm, caraway-flecked bread.

The following day provided a chance to explore the region's wineries. While only accounting for about 0.5% of Italy's wine output, the wines of South Tyrol punch way above their weight in terms of quality and awards. Vines have been found here from pre-Roman times and Pliny the Elder even wrote of his surprise at finding a long history of winemaking in the area. In later times, many monasteries in the region were highly regarded winemakers and, more recently, Archduke Johann of Austria brought modern viticulture techniques to the region in the mid 1800s and introduced the classic varieties of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc; today some of the most widely cultivated grapes here.

Winemaking in this region begins with cultivating and harvesting grapes on the steep slopes of the hills that give this area its distinctive character. Some of these slopes are near vertical and the only option, come harvest time, is hand picking. And, with some of the vines planted at altitudes as high as 3000 ft, this is no mean feat.

Rottensteiner is a small, family affair right in Bolzano, with vineyards stretching up into the hills from the suburban street. Run by a young couple with great plans, production is about 450,000 bottles a year of both whites and reds. Here, reds are given pride of place, unusual in a region where much of the cultivation is of white wine. 

Hannes Rottensteiner is committed to crafting great wines from local red grape varieties. Lagrein and St Magdalener (also known as Schiava or Vernatsch) have long been cultivated in the region and sold primarily as wines for blending. The last 20 years has seen something of a renaissance for these hard-working local varieties and Rottensteiner is leading the way with his beautifully balanced, soft and light St Magdalener Premstallerhof and his deep purple Lagrein Grieser Riserva Select, all dark chocolate and cherry with rounded tannins and a smooth, long finish. 

The winery also makes a very popular pudding wine, Gewurtztraminer Passito Cresta using the best of these lovely grapes which are then dried naturally for five months before being pressed, yielding a sweet, golden wine with zesty, citrus notes to balance the honey flavours. 

And, best of all, you can enjoy them right here in rainy old London as The Winery in Maida Vale is lucky enough to nab a few cases. http://www.thewineryuk.com 

Terlan is a large winery in comparison, with a sleek tasting room and vast cellars. Making wine since 1893 in Terlano, a few miles from Bolzano in its own valley, this is a cooperative representing over 220 winegrowers, many of whom are hobby farmers. 

The difference here, I am told, is in the terroirs. The soil in Terlano is a volcanic rock of quartz and red porphyry while the surrounding hills are typical Dolomite limestone. This gives Terlan’s white wines, which make up 70% of their wine, a flinty, mineral richness which needs only a little help from oak ageing. This was evident in their top flight Sauvignon Blanc – the Selection Quartz. A kilogram of grapes yields only one bottle of this voluminous, lingering wine from vines that grow up to 800 ft in the surrounding hills.

The Weissburgunder Vorberg Riserva is 100% Pinot Blanc grown at gradients of up to 70% and hand harvested. A year spent in large oak barrels delivers a crisp and lively wine with a good balance of acidity and a little softness from the malolactic fermentation. The Pinot Blanc grown here is more straw coloured than the classic pale wine that is more common in Europe.

The Terlaner Classico is their best selling wine – a fresh, peachy blend of 60% Pinot Blanc with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc making up the balance.

Terlaner wines are available in the UK from Astrum Wine Cellars http://www.astrumwinecellars.com/

And so, back to the food. South Tyrol is something of a gourmet's destination, not surprising given its Michelin stars. And, as it is asparagus season, every restaurant had the white spears of forced asparagus on the menu. White asparagus is bigger and more fibrous than the green asparagus we are used to here in the UK. A similar flavour, but more subtle and, to my mind, not as good. But, that didn't mean I passed up a single opportunity to eat it, whether stuffed in ravioli with speck and a garnish of green asparagus 

Or steamed in stock and served simply with cooked ham.

And now a word on speck. Speck is South Tyrol's answer to cured ham and it is known throughout Italy and beyond for its high quality, coming from happy pigs living on green hills with a natural diet and plenty of fresh, mountain air. It is not as salty as similar hams from Austria, for example, and has a softer texture. And you can go one better by getting hold of some Bauernspeck, a real local speciality with better marbling of the delicately flavoured fat giving it a sweeter, richer flavour. 

I tried all manner of speck at the South Tyrol Gourmet Festival, held in the centre of Bolzano over the last weekend. Bustling with people speaking both German and Italian and chock full of opportunities to sample local delights from breads to single varietal grappa, this is a great opportunity to try some of the best produce from artisan makers and large producers alike. http://www.gourmetfestival.it/en/home.html

Try the Gewutztraminer Grappa from a small distiller committed to producing the finest grappas, a spirit that originates not far from South Tyrol.

Other delights included Sauerkraut soup, served in a bread bowl and far more delicious than a photo could ever express, and some great breads, including the local Schuttelbrot, a crisp rye sourdough flatbread flecked with fennel and caraway seeds.

South Tyrolean food is an amalgam of cultures where tortelloni and knodel feature in the same menu, winningly combining heady Mediterranean flavours with more robust Germanic cooking. A memorable meal at Gretl am See in Caldaro (Kaltern in German) http://www.gretlamsee.com was an eight course feast, three of which were enjoyed on the deck overlooking the magical lake, with excellent Caldaro wines, regarded throughout Italy as some of the country’s best.

Almond and Courgette soup came with a fritter of courgette flower and a burrata foam

Calf’s Shoulder was slow cooked to meltingly soft and anointed with a herb crust

The petits fours tray (which arrived after we had already enjoyed two desserts) was laden with delicate biscuits and pastries.

From the many wines served to match each course, a couple stood out from the descending fug of overindulgence.

2010 Erste & Neue Kellerei Blauburgunder "Mezzan" is a ripe and rounded expression of the indigenous Blauburgunder grape from this winery which has been a stalwart of the Kaltern wine industry for over 100 years.

Manincor has its winery right next door to the restaurant and its Tannenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2011 is mineral-rich yet soft, a result of time spent on lees. Available in London from www.goedhuis.com

But it’s not just wine flowing down the rolling dolomite hills of South Tyrol. The beer industry isn’t much to speak of, although some craft beers are slowly emerging. It’s the apples grown throughout this region that are gaining acclaim. Grown at a high altitude, the fruit is crisp and the temperature variations during the growing season result in a juicy, sweet fruit. Thomas Kohl is leading the way from his orchards high up in the hills surrounding Bolzano, with his single varietal, crafted apple juices. Kohl juices are created with much the same care and deference as any wine, with the fruit pressed on the day it is picked and pastuerised at low temperatures to retain as much as possible of its fresh flavour.

Of the many varieties I tried the Kohl Rouge was both surprising and delicious. Made from red mountain apples whose flesh is also red (as are the tree’s leaves, bark and blossoms) it produces a tart, tangy and very refreshing juice that goes well with food. Kohl juices are not currently available in the UK so you will just have to make the trip to try them.

 

South Tyrol was both astonishingly beautiful and a real gastro treat. Whether you are hiking the many trails to a hearty meal at a bierstube or nursing a glass of classy Lagrein on a sunny square in the middle of town, there is much to beguile and detain you at every turn.

Simeen Kadi was a guest of the South Tyrol Marketing Group which runs a network of tourist information offices throughout the region http://www.suedtirol.info/en/

Beagle: working like a dog?
Come to Hoxton to rest and play

Where: 397 - 400 Geffrye Street, London, E2 8HZ  http://www.beaglelondon.co.uk 

Cost: Average £6 for starters and £14 for mains. Cocktails from £8

Beagle is in the railway arches right next to Hoxton station. Sitting on the large terrace, the view of the back of the Geffrye Museum is almost bucolic. And, on a rare sunny day in London, there are few better places to while away an afternoon.

The Bloody Mary here is made with vodka infused with chorizo which gives the drink a deep, smoky flavour. Their signature martini is also excellent with coriander bitters and caraway balancing out the sweetness of the vermouth.

In fact, there is very little not to like about Beagle. So, I will have a mini-gripe about these teeny-tiny annoyances. The bar snacks are well made but vary greatly in size. The pork pie was a good hunk of meat wrapped in a thick wedge of pastry alongside home made pickle. The pig's head croquettes, however, were superb but infuriatingly small - I could have eaten 3 portions on my own. Another mystery is why food from the restaurant cannot be ordered in the bar area - we were given some excuse about licencing laws which sounded highly implausible.

But, when you are on your second martini and the sun has decided to come out, on the terrace is exactly where you want to be for some stylish people-watching and languid weekend lounging. I have now been here a few times and sat both inside and outside. The huge glazed arches mean light-flooded interiors while the terrace is sheltered and quiet, facing only a pedestrianised street.

Starters such as Octopus with Tomatoes come wood-fired and anointed with a fresh and bright coriander sauce. Beetroot, Bitter Leaves and Bantam Egg makes use of the freshest ingredients, brought together by a zippy vinaigrette.

The Crab, Samphire and Cucumber Salad was as cool and crisp as it read on the menu.

Mains were a bit heavier but still very British in their provenance and cooking style.
Tamworth Pork Chop came with Puy lentils and a deep, meaty gravy.

Onglet was cooked as rare as it should be and came with fat chips cooked (two, three times? Who knows.) in duck fat. I would have preferred skinny, French-style fries, but I may be in a minority on this. 

The wood-fired treatment of food is something of a speciality here; Beagle's location under a railway line means no gas is permitted. And so, a necessity becomes a virtue as dishes come tinged with a hint of wood-flame as the kitchen relies on wood burning stoves.

We have not tried the desserts but we have watched others nod and smile agreeably at the variety of puddings proffered. The kitchen will also bake a cake for your birthday celebrations and I watched a large party singing along heartily around a birthday cake - at least until the birthday girl accidentally set fire to her hair while blowing out the candles. But, the sun was out and the setting was so convivial that no one seemed to mind.

Belazu Foundation

Fancy eating at some of London’s best restaurants while helping children get a solid start in life through education? Join the Belazu supper club and you could do just that. While you may be familiar with the Belazu brand of olives and other delicious Mediterranean sauces and condiments, the company’s foundation has been quietly working in the background to support some of the communities from which they source their ingredients.

George Bennell, founder of The Fresh Olive Company and Belazu, set up the Belazu Foundation to help children and women in the rural, Berber regions of Morocco receive an education and be better prepared to earn an independent living. Belazu matches funds raised by the foundation through events like their supper clubs.

Recently, around 80 diners enjoyed a multi-course dinner at Hix of Mayfair in the company of George Bennel of Belazu and Mark Hix himself, with all profits from the evening going to the foundation.

We started with some excellent smoked salmon which Hix smokes on the roof of Selfridges, I was reliably informed. The charcuterie was Mediterranean in flavour but made by Moons Green in Kent.

After mains of English rose veal, sweetbreads and rosemary-skewered lamb’s hearts we heard from George about the progress the foundation is making with children in Morocco.

Over 4 million people in Morocco live in poverty, with 3 million of them living in rural areas.  In these rural communities, as many as 66% of 15-24 year olds are entirely uneducated. While Belazu helps these communities economically by buying ingredients such as Argan oil, The Belazu Foundation complements this by raising funds and donating money directly into the communities, working closely with teachers and local women.

The informal atmosphere and the excellent wines that flowed all evening made for a lively night in the company of fellow foodies. Helping give children a chance of a better life through education while still having a great evening out is a model that we can all get behind. The Belazu Foundation hosts dinners at top restaurants in London every month and has already dined at Quo Vadis, Terroirs and even on the Towpath in Hackney.

Read more about the Foundation and join the supper club http://www.belazu.com/about-us/the-belazu-foundation/

Tozi - Cicchetti in London Victoria

Cost: Small plates range from £4 to £8 and you would need at least three plates per person to make a meal of it. There are a few larger dishes from £14.

About: Tozi is the latest addition to a growing cicchetti scene in London. Cicchetti is the Northern Italian answer to tapas, with baked and fried delicacies and even small portions of main courses such as stews and roasts are washed down with drinks, either as aperitivo or a main meal. Located in the backwaters of Victoria station, it is an unlikely find, but the cooking is good enough to make the trek out, even if you aren’t killing time before catching a train. It is located in the Park Plaza hotel, although I didn’t realise this until we left – the entrance is separate and there was no clue of hotel ‘styling’ in the décor.

The chefs come with great pedigrees from Cecconi’s and both Soho House and Shoreditch House.

Where: 8 Gillingham Street, London, SW1V 1HJ http://www.tozirestaurant.co.uk

What we ate: Small plate dining can be a little frustrating if you are ravenous and part of a large group,  politely waiting for your turn to scoop up your 1/8 share of a raviolo. But, while this type of dining does not provide the instant gratification of having a big plate of food all to yourself, I was pleasantly replete by the time we left. 

Bruschetta was exactly as I make at home (a good thing as it is one of my specialities) with well marinated tomatoes, a good zing of oil and vinegar and nicely flecked with basil.

Zucchinni Fritti was perfectly fried – crisp and unctuous on the inside. And excellent value, too, at only £3.50 for a goodly mound.

We also had the Calamari Fritti, which must have been good as it was polished off before I could raise my camera and click.

Ricotta Ravioli came with a lemony butter sauce and generously anointed with truffle shavings. I could have eaten three plates of it and happily called it dinner.

The gnocchi in the Gnocchi with Duck Ragu was soft as pillows and the ragu was interesting but had a flavour which reminded me of a Northern Italian delicacy which I have struggled to appreciate – sausages encased in salt and buried under ground to ‘season’.

Chargrilled Octopus tentacles were perfectly cooked and came with a springy dressing with celery, new potatoes and semi-dried tomatoes.

The Aubergine Parmigiana was sturdy and dense and not sloppy and oily as it so often is.

The Ox Cheeks were my favourite, cooked for as long as it takes, with the sauce reduced down to a rich concentration and the meat yielding but clinging to all the flavour of its cooking juices.

The Swordfish with Caponata was also excellent, crispy coating delivering firm and fresh fish with the tang of slightly pickled vegetables.

We also ate the Pizzette which was as you would expect, if a bit on the small side. And the Piadina, with an overly salty ham and not enough cheese to balance it.

What we drank: The Barrel-Aged Negroni is definitely the drink to try here, as is the Prosecco on tap. My Aperol Spritz-Tozi style was a classic Aperol-Prosecco combo enhanced with watermelon juice, which I loved. Anita Ekberg was a zesty cocktail of Vodka, chilli, ginger, cucumber and passion fruit.

Likes: The food is assured and the quality ingredients shine through. The small plate concept means that a greedy person like me can try more items on the menu, which makes ordering a little easier.

The cocktails are excellent and I would trek across town just for the barrel-aged Negroni.

Dislikes: The plates are rather small, even for small plates. The pizzette and piadini were particularly miniscule.

Verdict: Definitely worth a visit, especially if you happen to be in the area, which is largely devoid of interesting dining or drinking options. Going in a group for cocktails, with a few snacks, rather than for a full-blown meal is also a very good option. After all, Tozi does means mates in Italian.